Up North – Part 3: Inland

Click this link to read Up North – Part 2: Oberg Mountain and the Black-throated Blue Warbler.

Click this link to read Up North – Part 1: Temperance River State Park.

After enjoying the beauty and temps of the shore for a few days, it was time to head inland to the Iron Range to visit our families.  Our trip to the North Shore had been a birding success as we hit two of our three targets and picked up a total of four life birds.  Even though the weather was nearly 25° hotter inland and we’d seen some cool birds, there was still a lot of fun to be had.  The kids could finally do some lake swimming (an impossibility in Lake Superior), go fishing, and see their grandparents and cousins.

We continued our camping trip by staying at a local campground while we visited home.  Almost immediately I had one kid begging to swim and another begging to fish.  That first night we went swimming because it was so hot.

IMG_4295The adults weren’t the only ones watching what was happening in the water.  These two sentries kept a close eye on things too. (Bald Eagle and Osprey)

IMG_4293 IMG_4292 Birding was definitely not the main focus of this trip as we were here to see family, but we squeezed in a little birding here and there and sometimes had birds appear incidentally.  We tried to go birding on my dad’s property, but the heat and bugs forced us to call it off.  This property is unique in northern Minnesota because it is largely prairie habitat surrounded by woods.  This diversity in habitat creates a wider variety of bird species. In our limited time of birding, we tried to find a singing Le Conte’s Sparrow but could not locate it.  It was fun to see quite a few Savannah Sparrows, though.

IMG_4319Our campsite also proved to be a really good birding location.  When we first set up camp, I heard a song that was reminiscent of the Black-throated Blue Warbler.  But it was just a little different.  I couldn’t tell what it was, and I couldn’t get my eyes on the bird. Then a posting came in to MOU-Net where a birder finally identified a bird making an unfamiliar song.  He finally determined it was the Cerulean Warbler – a bird that is rare and in decline and can only be found in a small range.  Since this bird is a bird on our priority list and was found close to our home, I began studying the song.  It seemed to match what I was hearing at the campground!  If this were true, it would be big birding news since it would be well out of its established range.

I really wanted to make a great find and get this life bird, so I would go birding right by the campsite in the early morning while my family slept in.  I never did get a good look at my mystery bird, but I was thrilled with the birds I did see while I searched.

Here is a male Blackburnian Warbler with either food or nesting material in his beak.  I also found the female, so I’m guessing there was a nest nearby.

IMG_4321This next warbler is quite common Up North.  If you’ve ever been to the woods, I’m sure you’ve heard the Ovenbird with its very loud, very stacato “Teacher! Teacher! Teacher!” song.  It booms in the understory.  These birds aren’t often seen, so I was pleased to capture this one with my camera.IMG_4326

IMG_4331I was really excited to locate this next warbler that hangs out in the tops of leafy trees – the Northern Parula.  This photo is taken into the morning sun.  I tried to get on the other side of the tree so the sun was at my back, but the leaves blocked my view of the bird on that side.  So this photo is bad, but had I captured him in all his splendor, you’d be amazed at this baby-blue beauty.

IMG_4334All of these warblers were found when I was standing in one spot hunting for my mystery bird.  One morning I returned to the camper to see if people were awake yet.  Since they were all still sleeping, I decided to sit in a camp chair outside of the camper so I wouldn’t disturb them.  While I was enjoying the quiet campground whose only sounds were those of singing birds, I heard a squawking in the nearby trees.  It sounded like Blue Jays.  Even though it is a common bird, I pulled out my camera in case one presented itself for a good photo op.  All of the sudden, one burst out of the evergreen tree.  But it wasn’t a Blue Jay. Instead it was a Gray Jay!  This was a life bird.  And it wasn’t just one bird.  There were several Gray Jays coming out of the woodwork making all kinds of racket and raiding the campsite.  They were encroaching on my space from all over while I sat in my chair.

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In a voice louder than a whisper I tried to alert Evan without waking the rest of the campground.  He wasn’t waking up at all.  Melissa woke up and asked what was going on.  I told her there was a life bird in our campsite, and then she tried to wake Evan.  No luck.

IMG_4341Seeing that the birds were hanging around, I got up off my chair and poked Evan through the screen.  He sleepily opened his eyes and listened to me tell him what was happening. He quickly sat up and tried to look out his window to see a bird.  However, they were in the woods now but still making a terrible racket.  Evan could have got a good look if he came out of the camper, but instead he flopped back down sleeping hard. He’s claiming this life bird anyway since he said he dreamed about it and saw the trees move.

It seems that Gray Jays wouldn’t be the only incidental lifers of the trip.  As we headed down Grandma and Grandpa’s dusty road, I spotted this Wilson’s Snipe sitting on a fence post.  I had seen one a year ago in my overgrown lot next to my property, but Evan still needed it.  So I backed the car up for him to get a good look.  There was no worry about this guy fleeing.  It was as motionless as a statue.

IMG_4350IMG_4349I really wanted to call up my friend Jeff, who is an up-and-coming birder.  He does not believe that a snipe is a real bird.  I guess I might be a little skeptical too if I had been taken on a snipe “hunt” only to be abandoned by prankster friends miles from the nearest town in the dark of night.  So, they are real, Jeff.  But next time, come snipe hunting with me in the daylight.

It was a great Up North trip.  Evan tallied six life birds, and I got five.  More important than that, it was good to be in the woods again enjoying the sights and the company of family.

Up North – Part 2: Oberg Mountain and the Black-throated Blue Warbler

Click this link to read Up North – Part One: Temperance River State Park.

IMG_4219From being plugged into MOU-net and reading A Birder’s Guide to Minnesota by the renowned birder Kim Eckert, I had learned that Oberg Mountain was the place to go if you wanted to find a Black-throated Blue Warbler in Minnesota. They are scarce in our state and only inhabit the forests near the North Shore.  This was the bird the brought us to the North Shore.  It is one of those birds we just had to see.  It is stunning to say the least. Our other targets, the Black-throated Green Warbler and the Blue-headed Vireo, could have been found all throughout northeastern Minnesota.

Not knowing what hiking up Oberg Mountain IMG_4202would entail, we decided not to explore it our first morning.  It could wait until we got settled, and it would be the main event for the next day.  We did camping things that first day and explored the shore with the kids where throwing rocks is the most exciting sport ever.  The whole time, though, that mountain was beckoning.  But, it had to wait.  We instead decided to try one of Eckert’s suggestions and drive a Forest Service road right near Temperance River State Park to listen and look for the Black-throated Blue Warbler.  Its sound is very similar to the Black -throated Green – it is a slower, buzzy “zoo-zoo-ZEE!”  So, we listened as we drove down this dusty road that cut through the canopy. No “zoo-zoo-ZEE!” could be heard, but we did hear a Northern Parula and tried to locate it visually.  This is another gorgeous, blue bird.  We only saw a Northern Parula once for just a moment during migration.  I really wanted to get a photo of one, but this bird wasn’t showing itself today either.

We got back to camp, and Melissa decided to go on a run while the kids and I poked around the campsite.  The idea hit me that maybe we should take a drive just to see where the mountain was and how much hiking was involved.  As soon as Melissa got back from her run, we were in the car headed to Oberg Mountain.  It turns out it was only about seven miles from our campground.  As we climbed in elevation going up the Forest Service road from Hwy. 61 to the trailhead, a Common Raven flew down the road in front of the car just twenty feet in front of us only a couple feet off the ground. It did this for over a mile! It never tried to take refuge in the trees to the side but instead acted as mystical guide, taking us to this magical mountain where cool birds lived.  

The bird eventually did take cover in the trees, and we still found our way to the trail’s parking lot. The Oberg Mountain trail is a spur of the much longer, more well-known Superior Hiking Trail.  Other birders had indicated that Black-throated Blues were seen right near the start of the Oberg loop, a circle-trail at the top of Oberg Mountain that takes hikers around the perimeter of the mountain.  I thought it couldn’t be very far to hike up to the start of the loop, so we decided to check it out as long as we were there.

As we hiked along, the whole family was analyzing every bird sound for the lazy “zoo-zoo-ZEE!”  Melissa stopped once thinking she heard it.  It turns out she heard the Black-throated Green Warbler doing his similar “zoo-zee-zoo-zoo-ZEE!” song.  Once we got to the top of the mountain where the loop started, we veered to the right.  Almost immediately we heard the bird!  But we couldn’t locate it in the dense foliage. Since we hadn’t planned to search for this target on this outing, we decided to head back.  However, when we got back to the spot where the loop started, Melissa said as long as we were here we should take the left fork of the loop trail and actually complete the loop. I concurred. Little did we know what we were in for or how long we were in for it!

It wasn’t long after this ill-informed decision that we started to hear more Black-throated Blue Warblers!  At one point I saw some birds flying in the direction of the song, but I was staring into the sun and couldn’t find them again.  Did we just see our lifer?

During our hike, Marin did very little walking.  She spent a lot of time in my arms, on my shoulders, or on Melissa’s back. We expected this and were managing even as we were now committed to hiking this loop of unknown length.  But then, the big kid grew weary.  Now Melissa and I were each carrying a kid as we hiked up and down the hills on top of this mountain on a goat path of a trail.  Birding was no longer the objective. Survival was.  I felt like I was back in Cadet Basic Training at West Point on a road march through the Catskills with a heavy ruck-sack on my back.  What were we thinking?  This was supposed to be an exploratory trip, not a full-fledged Oberg Mountain experience.

Occasionally we’d make Evan walk for a stretch, and we’d rest briefly at several of the scenic overlooks along the trail.  The views of the Sawtooth Mountains and Luke Superior were incredible.

IMG_4210IMG_4215 IMG_4208But darkness was closing in, and we didn’t know how much longer we had to walk.  So we pushed on…and on.  As we started to close the loop, we heard the Black-throated Blue Warbler again!  This time it was close.  Everybody was looking for it, especially because I promised ice cream if we found it.  Eventually Melissa and Marin gave up the search and decided to head back down the mountain.  Evan and I wanted to try to see this bird.  Well, I did anyway. Evan, on the other hand, was stuck with me as I was his ride out of this place.  Finally I heard the bird singing from the dead tree in the photo above, but I couldn’t see it!  It was so aggravating.  Then, I did see it, but only as it dropped out of the tree and flew away.  It was a lifer, but a let-down.  I like to get a good look and have solid visual confirmation.  Evan, on the other hand, is a ticker.  A brief glimpse is good enough for him to tick it off his list and move on. In fact, I’m not even sure he saw the bird depart its perch like I did, but he wanted to claim it anyway.

It was time to go.  I was determined to come back in the morning to try again.  It was much nicer going downhill as we left, even more so now that Evan was not spending as much time riding on my shoulders.  Though we were tired and sore, we at least took a break to enjoy this unique tree.

IMG_4218By the time we were all reunited and back in the car, it was 8:30.  We had never even eaten supper.  Melissa and I looked at each other and knew that we needed to do something drastic.  So we headed up the shore to Grand Marais to get some Sven and Ole’s pizza.  We hadn’t even planned on stopping at this favorite restaurant on this trip, but tonight it was the perfect plan.  We got there just before they closed for a late supper or midnight snack.  Sven and Ole’s pizza is amazing.  It is even more amazing at 9:00 when you are starved and tired.

Once back at camp late that night, we all went to bed and slept in.  Except me.  I was up at 5 AM, excited.  I went back to the mountain solo to try to get my good look at this bird.  I expected to hear all kinds of Black-throated Blues.  After all, morning is the peak time for birding.  There was nothing from my target bird.  Nothing.  We heard several the night before.  What was going on?  I birded anyway and was pleased to get a photo of the Nashville Warbler.

IMG_4222I went back to the location I had “seen” the Black-throated Blue the night before to try one more time to see it for real.  Eventually I heard it in the trees of the forest beneath me as I stood at one of the scenic overlooks.  I decided to use a recording to play its song.  It was a long-shot, but I thought it would bring it in closer.  I didn’t expect anything.  This was proven by my holstered camera on my hip with the lens cap on and the power off.  Because then it happened.  I heard a flutter of wings as a bird landed within 10 feet of me on a young aspen tree just a few feet above the ground.  I almost lost my breath.  Plain as day was the male Black-throated Blue Warbler!  It was, by far, the prettiest bird I have seen so far.  While its name does a good job of describing this bird, it fails to mention how those dark colors contrast with a brilliant white belly.  While perched I got to see him sing his raspy and slow “zoo-zoo-ZEE!” I kept my eye on him, afraid to lose sight of him, as I fumbled with the zipper of my camera case and pathetically tried to free the camera.  I was too late.  The bird disappeared on me.  I tried the recording one more time.  This time I was ready when he came back.  I only got a couple photos, but only one turned out.

IMG_4232This was a major life bird, and it was the second nailed target of the trip.  I came off my mountain high that morning to find three sleeping campers.  I enjoyed my time on top of Oberg Mountain, so I went back again the next morning.  This time I wanted to photograph a Mourning Warbler I had seen the previous morning.  Though I saw it again, I could not get it to sit still long enough for a picture.  Another highlight bird that I saw but was not able to capture was the Canada Warbler.  I was able to get a shot between the leaves of a Chestnut-sided Warbler.

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At least the scenery doesn’t move and was just as impressive as the birds.IMG_4227

Up North – Part 1: Temperance River State Park

IMG_4239This was a rare summer because June had nearly expired before we made the trek up north to visit family.  With a prolonged school year, Bible school, and swimming lessons, a trip to God’s country was tough to pull off until just recently.  Besides family and amazing scenery, northern Minnesota is also attractive to us because it is full of incredible birds in the summertime.  Many birds that people only see during migration are summer residents in the north woods.  There were a couple migrants that we missed out on this spring that we were hoping to get while in the northland – the Blue-headed Vireo and the Black-throated Green Warbler.  Ever since Evan and I took a birding walk at Bear Head Lake State Park last year, the Black-throated Green Warbler has been one that we have wanted to find.  Its cool appearance and elusiveness made it all the more attractive.  Any bird that requires four words for its name is a good bird.

While our two target birds could probably be found in our parents’ back yards, there was another target bird that popped up on our radar early this summer along the North Shore of Lake Superior.  We learned that the beautiful Black-throated Blue Warbler can be found consistently at Oberg Mountain near Tofte. My wife and I have always loved going to the North Shore, so we decided to start our Up North trip by camping at Temperance River State Park which is just a few miles away from Oberg Mountain.

I was excited to be back birding in the woods, hunting for warblers. That’s how this hobby began for me a little over a year ago.  When we pulled into Temperance River State Park and got out of the car to register at the office, the woods were alive with all kinds of terrific bird songs that we don’t hear at our home.  After all, 16 species of warblers nest here, whereas we have just a couple species back home.  While I was anxious to start checking out everything with feathers, we had camp to set up.   I did manage to get out a little before dark to preview what might be in store for us the next day.  Right away I came across an American Redstart singing away.  This was a a treat to see one sitting still.  During migration we saw lots, but they were constantly moving.

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Then in the distance I heard the Black-throated Green Warbler sing just one time!  I knew the song well because we’d been studying it.  Birding by ear is about the only way to find a specific bird this time of year.  Its song is a buzzy “zoo-zee-zoo-zoo-ZEE!” It was here!  Now we just had to wait until morning to look for it.

I was up the next morning before everyone else, so I walked around the campground just to see if I could find this warbler.  Within a minute of starting my walk, I heard “zoo-zee-zoo-zoo-ZEE!” This persistent singer made him easy to track down.  It was right behind the park office.  After a year of waiting, I finally laid eyes on this great-looking bird.

IMG_4131Because this bird was singing on territory I knew it would be easy to bring Evan back later to find it.  So after letting him sleep in, I brought him out to see this life bird and get some more photos.

IMG_4151 IMG_4150Our trip had barely started and one of the three major targets was done! It turns out that this bird was easier to get than I thought.  There were several different ones throughout the campground.  In fact, we had one at each of the two campsites we occupied in addition to the one at the park office.  Its song was so common and so frequent that even Marin could be heard saying, “Zoo-zee-zoo-zoo-Zee!” One time I asked her if she knew what bird made that sound.  She said she didn’t know, so I told her.  I asked her if she could then repeat it right away.  She responded with, “A Black-throated…ummm….aa…bird!” Close enough, Marin.

The birding was great at Temperance River State Park.  We picked up another life bird, the Veery, a couple campsites away from us.  On one outing out of the park we got our Merlin lifer.  We also saw four species of woodpeckers and had Ruby-crowned Kinglets buzz through our campsite.  And we were constantly serenaded by the beautiful “Oh-sweet-kimberly-kimberly-kimberly” song of the White-throated Sparrow – a song that always transports us back home.  While many Minnesotans may not know that song or the bird that sings it, everybody in the state can appreciate this next bird and hear its voice.

IMG_4252Our Up North trip was off to a great start.  We enjoyed the temps (high of 61° and low of 38°!) as we could hang out in jeans and sweatshirts, and the sights of this state park were simply incredible.  If you are driving up Hwy. 61, you need to pull over at the wayside parking lot and take a short hike to check out the Temperance River gorge.  The power of this river and the rugged geological features are awesome.IMG_4233And then there’s Lake Superior…IMG_4263